--==M37R01Dz M0Dz==--
--==Intec “Radiator” Review ==--
--==1st Impression==--
Today we will be looking at the Intec Radiator for the Nintendo Wii.
Now these thing I haven’t seen anywhere on the internet, I just happen to walk into EBGames and they had one, so I bought it. Most of you have probably never seen this, as I feel into that group as well before I walked into EB.
Sooner or later after extended use, a lot of heat is generating up inside your gaming console. How many times have you blown a 72pin adapter in an NES, or had to replace that 22ohm resistor in your Dreamcast when the controllers stop responding?
The Wii comes with one small fan in the rear (about 35mm). And the Intec Radiator adds another 40mm fan behind the original and connects and powers from the USB ports on the back of the console. Once you get apart the indestructible package, you should have something like this ;-)
And if you were thinking you lose your USB, guess again, only one USB is used to power the fan, the other one is conveniently located on the side of the Radiator.
--==Installation==--
This was a Breeze, just plug it into the back of the Wii console in the USB ports.
I did a little more, as we changed the resistor and status led on the front of the Radiator.
We used a blue led and a 120ohm resistor ;-)
--==Review==--
After you attach the Radiator you will notice how well it lines up with the body lines of the Wii. The Radiator is also made out of what appears to be the same or similar plastic with the same glossy coating giving it almost an OEM look with still keeping the size down to a minimum.
So at 1st I didn’t believe so much hot air builds up in the Wii, well I was definitely wrong.
Without the Radiator you would think the same, as even on for hours, it appears to be pretty cool still.
The only real time I notice it getting hot is when its been on then in standby for a day or so, even in standby it seems hot.
Once the Radiator is installed, after a few minutes of use you can feel the heat being pushed out the back more then twice as hard. I would have to say a 5-10 degree difference.
As far as the sound of the fan, it is louder then the console, but not much. It is no where near as loud as the Nyko Intercooler for the XboX 360. Once your game starts and you hear some volume through the TV you can barely hear it, or if you have a surround sound setup then you definitely will not hear it.
One thing I did find annoying but I guess they cant control it, is that the fan stays turned on when in standby. Now I believe the USB stays on due to having the USB to Ethernet adapter, and the would have to use the USB port in standby.
So what can be done do you ask. Well the certainly could have added a switch. Hmmm, That sparks an idea, below after the review.
Overall I would say is definitely worth the $14.99 from EBGames, even if the Wii doesn’t have all the overheating problems as the XboX 360 you will be glad to know your components in your $250 console aren’t slowly burning out from heat subjection.
--==Quick Summary==--
-=Pros=-
- -=Cons=-
--==Extras==--
Ok so lets get back to the on/off problem.
In this case I decided to add a switch, to turn it off and on when I want.
I also added an extra status LED to the bottom as I will explain as well.
Now before you ask WTF would you do that for, well it was about 3am and I drilled a hole in the wrong side, so to patch it up I used an LED, and you all know you can never have enough LEDs ;-)
--==Toolz==--
--==Install==--
I first Started out drilling 2 holes, one on each side, one to house the switch the other for the LED.
Mount the switch in the corner and got glue it down, I think I added some super glue as well. Make sure the switch does not sit higher then the edge of the Radiator, and run the wires down into the compartment. You will have to cut a small notch out for the wires to get through.
Now do the same thing for the other side with the LED, run the wires down to the compartment
Wiring it all up is fairly simple.
Switch: desolder the Fans black wire from USB, and solder it to the blue wire coming out of the USB. Then solder “Wire A” from the switch to the same group (circled in blue) Solder “Wire B” of the switch to the point where you unsoldered the black fan wire from (circled in red)
LED: Positive wire goes to the resistor and connect it to the other resistor where the white wire goes (red circle). The negative goes to the black wire coming out the fan (Green Circle)
You might have to break the tabs on to get it to fit all in nice, see the green arrow above.
Put it all back together, and you should have something like this;
